The Sick Culture Movement

Sun Culture Media

Sun Sessions, Santa Cruz 2015 — We eloped to Santa Cruz, California, where I was born, to have our first baby this past winter. It also happen to be a super fun winter of waves, and our sweet little boy was just getting used to being strapped to Sophie's chest. This allowed her to film while he slept or breastfed. It was pretty miraculous. I am riding a 5'5 Gravy model, Channel Island surfboard. The flat rocker and pin tail made it super fast and fun to draw lines on the semi-mushy, but pushy rights. Alex Knost came up one day calling it cutback camp out there, and that was pretty much the story all winter.

Santa Cruz, California, June '06, Immigration Day Celebration; the session before I dislocated my right knee. We biked around town filming the protesting immigrants in super 8 after surfing this fun, rippable beach break north of town. The following day, at this same spot, I was descending from an air attempt when my knee popped and I felt it jolt out of place. After the mile hobble back to the car, 2 years, and over 10 g's for the surgery, my knee is back to 90%. Good times!! Surfers are Chris Rempe, me, and a flash of Z. Willickers. Music is "L'via L'viaquez" by the mars Volta.